And it didn't. ;) Our luggage and the bell case we brought came in on a later flight. Still, it got to us! Whew!
We're staying at the Park Inn (by Radisson) in central Tallinn, here:
http://www.parkinn.com/hotel-centraltallinn
We went to the National Opera House, which is in the same complex as the national symphony theater, and we dropped off our few bell cases. Yes, for the first time, Sonos is borrowing bells for our concerts. We just couldn't make the luggage distribution with the *massive* limitations and excessive fees that are being placed on checked-in bags these days. We were looking at $1000+ dollars just to pay for all the overage fees. :/
We went to our hotel and dropped off our junk, but we couldn't check in for a few hours, so Greta, the assistant manager of our hosts, Arsis Handbell Ensemble, took us out to the Old Town Square, where we met up with our best handbell friends in the world, Kiriku! And we got to meet Taiko Otsubo's new baby, Yuam, who is precious beyond belief. Jan, Cheryl Woldseth's husband, quipped that they had some extra space in their luggage on the trip home... ;)
It was a tearful reunion. Great tragedy has befallen Japan since we saw them last. None of our Kiriku friends were hurt or suffered terrible damage in the earthquake and brutal tsunami, but I'm sure no Japanese, no matter where they are, could be escape unscathed from that terrible time. Plus, Kiriku and Sonos have always had a close, beneficial relationship. Sonos helped Taiko Otsubo (music director) get back on her feet after a terrible time with her first group, Chamber Ringing Soloists, in the early 2000s. She, in turn, commuted from Tokyo (yeah, you read that correctly!) to play with Sonos for a few years while she started up a new group (what became the modern Kiriku).
We split for lunch - Diane and I ended up with a group at an Indian place, which was, unfortunately, not special. It was probably a mistake - hard to beat the Indian food we can get in the Bay Area, which its *huge* east-asian population.
After that we came back to the hotel and napped (THANK *GOD*!). I hadn't slept for about 40 hours prior to that, so I was a basket case.
We got up and went to the opening concert of the inaugural "Bells Art" handbell festival, featuring Arsis' own youth choir (choir I - they have an older youth choir, too) and their "senior" choir. Aivar Mae (their artistic director) jokes that since a majority of the 8-person group were in Arsis *before* they ever saw handbells (pre-1993), they truly are a "senior" group. ;)
Their show was great, although the venue, St. John's Church off the Town Square in Central Tallinn) was a little too forgiving for my taste - the reverb was excessive. Plus, the high, high, high ceilings just ate up a good portion of the sound.
Still, their playing is as fine as always. The youth choir opened with four or five numbers, starting with the Largo from Handel's Xerxes - not a typical opening for a concert! But it was played impeccably. Aivar is a consummate musician and I imagine demands no less from his students.
Yes, Arsis has morphed into a much larger organization than when they first got their bells from the AGEHR in 1993. They now support *two* handbell schools, which are supplemental music schools that teach keyboard, theory, and handbells to 100+ students at a time. The school gig has been going for 8+ years, and their organization has turned out amazing ensembles. And in *Estonia*, no less! Can we say we do any better in the U.S.? NOT!
Arsis' youth group ended with Doug Smith's inimitable "Hava Nageela," which they beat the snot out of (in a good way). A little too fast for my taste, perhaps not sensual enough to suit, but no one can deny their chops.
Then the "senior" group came out and opened up with more un-traditional pieces, this time arrangements of the second and third mvmt. from the Mozart "Eine Kleine Nachtsmusik." We always hear the first movement (and only portions of that - our American attention span is so limited these days), but I love the second movement more. They were lovely, so sensitive.
Aivar plays in the senior group, so they don't have a director. It was amazing to see the "chamber" aspect of their ringing as eye contact and attention flew around the group as they rang their way through the subtle shadings of the Mozart.
I was thrilled when they played three Estonian folksongs, all of which are present on their beyond wonderful "awake, my heart" CD (*buy* *it*, if you haven't already. NO EXCUSES!!). They began the set with "Cody," a cute little hommage to a famous fish that Estonians caught for time immemorial. The setting perfectly caught the darting, fleeting nature of the fish's existence. Unfortunately, Aivar commented that most of Estonia's rivers have been fished out, so the song is mostly about the memory of the fish, rather than the reality. Sad, when I think about it.
Next, Arsis returned to their chamber choir roots and sang an arrangement of "Awake, My Heart," the titular tune on their CD. LOVELY. Beautiful. I love the bell arrangement, but their singing was transporting, especially in this venue. I'm so glad they still sing. This tune was so appropriate and very effective.
Finally, they ended their set with my favorite song on "awake, my heart" (have you bought it yet??) - "Roll, Sun," a driving, rhythmic rendition. BTW, the songs on "awake" were all arranged by Estonian composer TÕNU KÕRVITS, who is a big shot - lots of romantic, classical music as well as pop music! He really hit the sound and genre on the mark with his arrangements for this CD. "Roll, Sun" conveys the energy and light and power that the sun provides to all mankind.
Arsis "senior" ended with Kevin McChesney's arr. of "Farandole" from "L'Arlesienne." (I think he calls it "Joyful Dance" or something like that.) They were a little quick (they like fast tempi), but the playing was brilliant. My friend, Tiina Kodumäe, who manages Arsis and also plays in the senior group, was crazy amazing as she reached around and played other ringers bells, even turning around to the back table, playing a bell, turning back to her position, playing another bell, then turning around *again* to play yet another bell in another ringer's set on the back table... amazing. I guess that's life with 8 ringers playing full 5-octave stuff.
I could go on and on (and I did scream for an encore, but was shot down), but I'll end with some pictures I caught on our first day. (Nothing from the concert, unfortunately.)
Enjoy!
---Jason
The St. John's Church, where Arsis played the opening concert of the Bells Arts festival.
Lovely example of Soviet-era masculine architecture. Joy.
A baroque-style organ in the St. John's church. (The 2nd organ in the church!)
Marquise and Cheryl in front of Arsis' Headquarters in Tallinn.
Arsis' bass bell "pit" (with apologies to Bayview). They have aluminum from B2 down to C2. They also have handchimes down to C2, which were used to lovely effect by the youth ensemble.
Before Arsis' concert. The blond in the foreground is Jenny Cauhorn, the executive director of AGEHR (soon to be Handbell Musicians of America). On her right is John Pfeiffer, AGEHR's president. AGEHR has had along relationship with Arsis - I'm glad they came to see the first festival get underway!
The "other" organ at St. John's Church. Not bad, eh??
Kickin' around Old Town Square in Tallinn. The lovely blonde in the light blue shirt is my baby.
Taiko Otsubo of Kiriku and her 18-mo. baby, Yuam. The wee one slept through most of the excitement. So precious!
Original city gates to the walled central city of ancient Tallinn. The foundations are still in place.
A shot of the national theater from in front of the national opera house. This is where the festival classes will be held. (And are being held right now - I'm playing hooky.)
Random buildings in Tallinn. The lady staring me down in the above picture is "Kitten," a good friend of Sonos' and Kathie Fink.
Glad to see you arrived safely and are well underway.
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